Michinoku Coastal Trail
Overall Description
Long, long ago, the North-eastern part of the Tohoku region of Japan (made up of the Fukushima, Miyagi, Iwate and Aomori prefectures) was known as Michinoku, which means “the end of the road”. Away from the hustle and bustle of big cities, Tohoku is known for its beautiful and natural landscapes, its mythical folklore and rich history. The Michinoku Coastal Trail is a long and connected walking trail that runs for approximately 1000km, beginning from the north of Tohoku, from the City of Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture to the City of Soma in Fukushima Prefecture. As part of reconstruction efforts following the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami in 2011, the Ministry of the Environment played a central role in inspecting the paths, and the entire trail was finally opened on June 9, 2019. Beautiful nature is a given, but you can also experience the charm of the local culture and cuisine in this region, which you will not be able to experience fully if you do not travel by foot.
The Hirota Peninsula Trail within the City of Rikuzentakata
I was lucky enough to have the chance to walk the area of the Michinoku Coastal Trail within the City of Rikuzentakata that began at Mutsugaura, in the Hirota Peninsula, with my colleague and the person who manages the trail in that area. He constantly hikes the area to sweep away fallen branches or leaves so that the path remains clear for those who attempt to walk it. The entrance to the trail is a natural path next to a house, which made it difficult to locate, so I was really grateful that two people who were familiar with this trail were with me, so I would not get lost. Despite the difficulty to locate the start of the trail, there is a signboard stuck to the shed just before the path up into the woods, so once you see that signboard and its directional arrows, you know to turn right and go straight up into the woods – that is where the trail begins if starting from that point. Along the way, there are labels and information signs with the words “Michinoku Coastal Trail” printed on them along the way that will guide you, and at certain points of the trail there will be signs pointing in the directions that make up the trail so you do not stray off the path.
Our hike began from the “natural path next to house” all the way to Kurosaki Senkyo.
This signboard pasted on the shed in Mutsugaura of the Hirota Peninsula shows the directions you can walk in for the Michinoku Coastal trail.
This hike was surprisingly easy, because there were not many ups and downs, and certain parts of the trail even had properly constructed steps. I came equipped with onigiri, tea and water to last me if I ever got thirsty or hungry, but it took us only 2 hours in total to get from Mutsugaura to the Kurosaki Senkyo area, which was our destination, and I ended up not eating the onigiri. Still, it never hurts to go prepared for any situation. We went in early March, when it was still a little chilly but warm enough to hike. It was sunny that day, and the winds were stronger than usual, making the waves even more violently grand than a normal day. This was why the coastal scenery was amazing on our way to the Kurosaki Senkyo area. Hiking up the forest paths, the view of the sea from up there was just breathtaking. Spread out across were waves pushing beautiful blue water over the rock formations, splashing white foam all over. The color combination just completely made my jaw drop, and it might look pretty in pictures, but nothing can compare to actually viewing this beauty of nature in real life. Due to the fact that the trail we were hiking goes along the coast, no matter which area we hiked, as long as we looked down, the beauty of the sea spread out before our eyes.
The majestic scenery of the sea as we hiked the trail in the Hirota Peninsula.
Another great part of hiking was that, if not for this trail, I would not have noticed a lot of tiny details. One example was the fact that camellias were starting to bloom, because they were popping up all over the forest path that we were walking through. The camellia is the representative flower of the City of Rikuzentakata, so they hold great significance for the people who live here. Another would be how some logs were piled up together and wrapped in plastic. According to my colleague, who heard from the person who manages the trail, these logs have been damaged by bugs that were eating away at these logs, and the people in charge of managing the woods had to apply medicine to these logs and leave them there wrapped in plastic for a while to recover before they can be used again. The interesting things we learn on this hike made me feel so fortunate to be living so close to nature. The most shocking thing that happened on this hike was actually coming into close proximity with a kamoshika, also known as a “Japanese serow” in English, or a Japanese goat-antelope. It was designated as a special natural monument of Japan by the national government, because they were hunted until they were almost extinct in the mid-20th century. We heard rustling and the snapping of branches in the distance, and as we went closer to look, one was hiding amongst the trees. Please do not get any closer if you see one, and just observe from afar, because they are subject to protection by the government. They will eventually head back up further into the mountains on their own.
The Japanese serow that we saw towards the end of our hike.
There were some parts of the trail that might be difficult to find halfway through the hike, because certain pathways were damaged due to the extremely destructive Typhoon Hagibis that hit Japan in October 2019. Due to that, the path seems like it would end after coming out of the woods, but the path still continues on if you just cross over the tiny stream that is in the way, and head over back up into the woods after crossing the stream and passing by Koiwai Beach. That area is also marked by “Michinoku Coastal Trail” labels so you don’t lose your way.
You know you are on the right path when you see one of these labels that has the words “Michinoku Coastal Trail” printed on it.
Koiwai Beach is a great spot to rest during your hike when you feel tired, simply because the waves that wash up to shore look so beautiful and has a calming effect. It is also located on the guide map as a scenic spot! After soaking in the beauty of this beach, you can once again head up towards the forest path and get going along the trail.
The grand view of Koiwai Beach from the forest path.
When we finally arrived at Kurosaki Senkyo, the view we got at the observatory deck was the best, because for one, we finished the hike, and two, because the weather was perfect. The blue waves crashed against the rocks in succession, and it was so calming that I could have just stared at the ocean waters the whole day. In the past, a part of the rocks there caved in and in between the steep cliffs a narrow water channel formed, with violent waves from the ocean eroding the rocks and changing the topography over the years, eventually forming the Kurosaki Senkyo. This natural shaping of the rocks is a feast for the eyes, and you can even enjoy a well-deserved soak in the Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen after a long trek, gazing dreamily upon the Pacific Ocean. From Kurosaki Senkyo, if you look into the distance, you would also be able to see two islands – Aomatsu-shima and Tsubaki-shima. Both islands are breeding grounds for umineko, or “black-tailed gulls”. A scenic spot of Iwate Prefecture, Aomatsu-shima is a natural treasure designated by the prefecture. On the other hand, Tsubaki-shima is a national treasure designated by the national government.
The rock formations of Kurosaki Senkyo.
The hike was very fulfilling, and I was so glad I went for it. You would know that nature is beautiful – but seeing scenery through pictures and seeing scenery in real life is completely different. In all sense of the word, it was truly “breathtaking”. I recommend this hike to everyone who loves the sea and the mountains.
A camellia flower that bloomed beautifully.
Information
l Official website (in English): http://tohoku.env.go.jp/mct/englis/h
Please read the ‘Remarks’ section on this website. It is important to know what you should and should not do before and during the hike.
l For more information on what to prepare before going on a hike and what to take note of on the hike, please check out this Michinoku Coastal Trail (Rikuzentakata section) English pamphlet:
http://tohoku.env.go.jp/mct/english/top/pdf/32_rikuzentakata_title.pdf l Michinoku Coastal Trail (Rikuzentakata Section) English Guide Map:
Please print this map out before going on a hike within Rikuzentakata. Printing out the English pamphlet (title) would be useful too. Visitor centers usually only have Japanese versions of the maps.Network signals might not be strong in some areas as well. If you wish to hike other locations within the Michinoku Coastal Trail, they are all found on the official website above.
Along with the printed guide map and pamphlet, using Google Maps in general would not be that helpful, but if you use this specific Google map created by the Natori Trail Center, which shows you the entire trail path you can hike, alongside areas that were damaged by the typhoon, you can be sure not to get lost and keep yourself safe: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/viewer?hl=en&ll=39.14288362981103%2C141.4530535&z=7&mid=1gUdWx_hNctNunDhX2Ft1zS7Mxgs1tdVf
For any other inquiries regarding the Michinoku Coastal Trail, you can direct them to this place:
Michinoku Coastal Trail, Natori Trail Center Address: 5 Chome 300-31-1 Yuriage Natori City, Miyagi Prefecture Homepage:https://www.mct-natori-tc.jp/en/
Email: info@m-tc.org
