Relaxing in Ofunato’s Hot Springs
When someone hears about Iwate Prefecture’s hot springs, it’s likely they’ll hear about the hot springs located inland, nestled deep within snowy mountains. However, Iwate’s coastal area also has its own array of hot springs, with charming spots in the Kesen region as well. The hot springs in Kesen offer unique experiences such as bathing with a stunning view of the ocean.
Being from the U.S., onsen (hot spring, in Japanese) culture was completely new to me when I first came to Japan. Living in Ofunato City, however, has introduced me to the charms of hot springs—so much that now, they’ve become a highlight to my daily life. The hot springs of Ofunato have options for any occasion, be it for when you just want to bathe after a tiring day, or for when you want to treat yourself to a relaxing hot spring overnight stay.
Kesen is distinguished by the harmony between the mountains and the sea, with the mountainous rias coastline. The hot springs in Ofunato are complimented by this environment.
Photo of Ofunato Bay, taken near Ofunato Onsen.
While there are many hot springs in Ofunato, I have three personal favorites which keep me coming back for the views, food and for the benefits they have on my skin: Goyo Hot Spring, Ofunato Onsen and Natsumushi no Yukko.
Common rules for hot springs in Japan:
Before visiting Ofunato’s hot springs, it’s important to mention that there are a few general rules for hot springs in Japan.
-If possible, it’s good to bring your own towel, soap and conditioner. The type of amenities available will depend on the hot spring. Often you can pay to rent or buy a towel, and can use free soap and shampoo provided at the hot spring.
-Most hot springs have blow-driers, but don’t have hairbrushes.
-Undress before entering the bathing space, and take a shower before going into the bath. You can leave your items in the changing area lockers or baskets before entering the bath.
-It depends on the hot spring if you’re allowed to enter the bath with a towel on or not. If you want to bathe with a towel on, check with staff first.
-Many hot springs do not allow people who have tattoos to enter, so if you have tattoos it is good to check with staff beforehand. Some locations will allow people to enter the bath with tattoos, if they cover up their tattoos first.
Goyo Hot Spring
Scenery on Mt. Goyo.
Goyo Hot Spring, located on the base of the mountain in Ofunato.
Mt. Goyo is a picturesque mountain that also has spiritual and historical significance to Kesen locals, as described in “The Goyō Mountain Samurai Matchlock Performance Group”. The mountain isn’t just renowned for its cultural properties and views, however; the spring water beneath the ground on Mt. Goyo is favored for its benefits on health and beauty. The Goyo Hot Spring is the oldest natural hot spring establishment on the whole Sanriku Coast, which stretches from Aomori to Miyagi Prefectures.
The hot spring at Goyo Hot Spring is a 100% natural simple alkali spring, pumped up from 2,000 meters below ground, and heated manually.
One of my favorite things about this hot spring is how I can instantly feel a difference in my skin once I dip into the bath, as it becomes soft and smooth. The hot spring also helps to soothe joint and muscle pain.
The bath sections are separated for men and women, and both sections have indoor and outdoor baths as well as a sauna.
Personally, I always find myself heading to the outdoor bath at Goyo Hot Spring. There’s something special about being in a 100% natural hot spring, while surrounded by nothing but pristine nature. If you visit the outdoor bath at night time, you can stargaze from the bath, and if you visit during the winter, you can enjoy warming up in the bath as snow falls around you.
Dine, snack, or shop at Goyo Hot Spring
One other charm about Goyo Hot Spring is the restaurant and shop inside. The shop sells local produce grown nearby the mountain. There is even a nutritious ice cream that you can only eat at the Goyo Hot Spring restaurant: millet grain flavored soft serve ice cream.
“Kibi Soft”, or “millet soft cream” in Japanese, is made with millet grain farmed locally in Hikorichi-cho, the district of Ofunato where the hot spring is located. The ice cream has a flavor that isn’t too sweet, and is almost bitter. It makes for a refreshing snack to cool off with once you’ve come out from the hot spring.
You can also try a traditional sweet which is local especially to Kesen, which is sold at the shop inside: kamamochi.
Kamamochi is a special mochi (Japanese rice cake) with a mixture of walnut, miso, and brown sugar inside. You need to be careful when you eat kamamochi, so that the delicious filling doesn’t turn into a mess.
Japan has a tradition of drinking milk after entering a hot spring, which also goes well with the mochi.
More information on Goyo Hot Spring:
Hours:
Closed on the second Tuesday of every month.
Bath: 10 AM-9 PM
Restaurant: Weekdays: 11 AM-5:45 PM, Weekends: 11 AM-6:45 PM
Bathing Price: Adult: 600 yen, Elementary school-aged child: 300 yen
Location: Akasakanaraizan-1-5 Hikoroichicho Ofunato, Iwate 022-0005, Japan
Access: by car or taxi. If a group of 10 or more people reserves a set dining plan, the hot spring can send out a bus to pick up the visitors.*
Website: http://www.goyoonsen.jp/
*The Goyo Hot Spring is located on a mountain, which is home to wild deer, monkey, and bears. Visitors need to be careful when driving to the hot spring, especially at night. Roads also freeze and are sometimes snowed over during the wintertime.
Natsumushi no Yukko - Natsumushi Hot Spring
The Natsumushi Hot Spring, like Goyo Hot Spring, is located up in the mountains.
The hot spring is located on Mt. Natsumushi, which literally translates to “Summer Bug Mountain”. Legend has it that “summer bug” refers to fireflies, which light up the mountain during the summertime.
Coastal scenery taken from on Mt. Natsumushi.
Outside Natsumushi no Yukko.
Natsumushi no Yukko is a man-made hot spring, with natural minerals (such as alkali and radon minerals) pumped into the water. The hot spring is good for back and shoulder pain, as well as pain from chap skin or rashes. Not only is the bath soothing for pain, but it also gives a lasting effect of soft skin. There are indoor baths separated for men and women inside.
The hot spring comes with a sauna to relax in as well, and a cold bath to cool off in after entering the sauna. While there isn’t an outdoor bath at the Natsumushi no Yukko, the large windows allow you to enjoy looking out into the mountainous forest outside.
Inside the hot spring establishment, there is a souvenir shop and restaurant.
The souvenirs at the Natsumushi Hot Spring are unique compared to what you’ll find in most shops in Kesen, as they’re mostly snacks from rural spots in inland Iwate.
The restaurant’s menu offers simple dishes such as udon noodles and ramen. There is even a special “sauna ramen” on the menu, which is apparently is so hot and spicy, eating it feels like being in a sauna.
If you’d like to stay on the mountain, there are cabins and a small hotel located just next to the hot spring as well.
More information on Natsumushi no Yukko
Hours:
Bath: 10 AM-9 PM
Restaurant: Weekdays: 11 AM-2 PM, Weekends: 11 AM-7 PM
Bathing Price: Adult: 400 yen, Elementary school-aged child: 300 yen, Infant: 100 yen
Location: Koide-59-1 Sanrikucho Okirai, Ofunato, Iwate 022-0101
Access: by car or taxi*
*Natsumushi no Yukko is located on a mountain, which is home to wild deer and bears. Visitors need to be careful when driving to the hot spring, especially at night. Roads also freeze and are snowy during the wintertime.
Ofunato Onsen
Photo of the Ofunato Onsen, which overlooks the Ofunato Port.
Ofunato Onsen is the most luxurious hot spring in Ofunato, and arguably offers the best views.
In addition to the hot spring facility allowing daytrip entry, it’s also a hotel and has options for banquets.
The hot springs at Ofunato Onsen are separated for men and women, and are all natural hot springs. There are three baths in the public bathing section, with 2 inside baths and one outside bath. The inside baths include a large natural hot spring with sodium and calcium salts, as well as a natural chemical medicinal bath. The outside bath is a natural hot spring which is beneficial for joint pain.
I enjoy the baths at Ofunato Onsen because of how smooth and clean my skin feels after bathing. While the hot spring has benefits for health and skin, it’s also a spot to relax mentally, due to the soothing panoramic ocean view.
You can enjoy watching the horizon while relaxing at the indoor and outdoor baths. If you stay at the hot spring overnight, the staff will let you know the sunrise time, so you can watch the sunrise over the ocean while relaxing in the bath. At night, on the other hand, you can enjoy watching squid fishing boats’ lights glitter across the sea.
Dine at the Ofunato Onsen
The Ofunato Onsen also has exquisite cuisine, with locally caught seafood. Dining at Ofunato Onsen requires prior reservation.
Pictured above is a crab hot pot dish served at Ofunato Onsen. The hot spring serves many other seafood delicacies as well, and even has a breakfast course option for visitors who stay the night.
More information about Ofunato Onsen
Hours:
Bath: (weekdays and Sundays) 11 AM-8 PM
Saturdays, holidays: 11 AM-3 PM
Bathing Price: Adult: 430 yen, Elementary school-aged child: 150 yen, Infant: 70 yen
Location: Marumori-29-1 Ofunatocho, Ofunato, Iwate 022-0002
Access: by car, taxi or bus
Website: https://oofunato-onsen.com/en/
These three hot springs are my personal favorites in Ofunato, and they always keep me coming back. However, there are even more hot springs than these three locations in Ofunato. Two other hot springs in Ofunato are:
Tomiyama Hot Spring: Kawara-44-4 Takkoncho, Ofunato, Iwate 022-0006
Goishi Hot Spring: 39 Ohama Massaki-cho Ofunato, Iwate 022-0001
