Cape Ryorizaki
In addition to being part of the Sanriku Reconstruction National Park, Kesen’s coastal cities, Rikuzentakata and Ofunato, are also part of a long trail which runs along Tohoku’s Pacific coast: the Michinoku Coastal Trail. The Michinoku Coastal Trail, which stretches over 700 KM from Aomori Prefecture to Fukushima Prefecture, is set to officially open up in June 2019. This trail has already started to bring in nature-loving travelers to see the gorgeous coast, even before its complete opening.
Ofunato, in particular, currently makes up two sections of the trail: the North to Central Ofunato Section, and the Central to South Ofunato Section. While the Goishi Coast, part of the central to south section, is the most famous area on Ofunato’s coast, there are plenty of beautiful spots all along the coast. Because Ofunato has a rias-styled coastline, there are multiple mountainous peninsulas reaching into the ocean which gives the city an array of ocean views.
One lovely spot on the coast, belonging to the Michinoku Coastal Trail’s North to Central Ofunato Section, is the Cape Ryorizaki.
View from Cape Ryorizaki.
The Michinoku Coastal Trail’s map suggests taking a daytrip to hike around the cape starting from the Ryori Station. It takes about 5-6 hours to go around the cape starting from the Ryori Station. For those who prefer an easier or quicker experience of the cape, half of the trail is also accessible by car.
Ryori Station.
At the station you can ride the Sanriku Railway train, south to Sakari, or north all the way up to Kuji on Iwate’s northern coast. While up until recently, the train only connected to one city away from Ofunato, the Sanriku Railway opened up the Rias Line in March 2019, which connects Ofunato all the way to Iwate’s northern coast. This has been monumental to the coast’s recovery, and also greatly improves access for visitors.
Inside the Ryori Station there is a tourism information desk, and a shop selling some local souvenirs and snacks. The friendly staff inside will also be glad to answer any questions you have about the Ryori area. If you’re going to go around Cape Ryorizaki, be sure to also stock up on drinks to stay hydrated!
There is also an important cultural surprise resting right next to the station—the Ryori Daigongen.
The Ryori Daigongen head is usually set in a hut next to the station.
During special events in Ofunato, such as when cruise ships visit, this giant lion head is attached to and operated by a crane to come to life with a dance. The Ryori Daigongen is the largest moving daigongen in Japan.
A photo of the Ryori Daigongen putting on a show to welcome a cruise ship.
From the station area, you can set out to go hiking around Cape Ryorizaki.
This graphic, provided by the Ministry of the Environment, gives details on the Cape Ryorizaki Round Tour: One Day Course.
The northern part of the cape is accessible by a paved road. While on this path, I spotted dears as well a copper pheasant, but they were too fast to capture a photo of. The general area also has bears, so be sure to bring a bear bell or bear spray with you to stay safe.
After about two hours of walking, you’ll reach the tip of the peninsula. The cape features a lovely lighthouse at its base. If you walk down to it, it takes about 15 minutes going down, and about 40 minutes to come back up.
Photo showing view of the cape’s point.
By the road here, there is a Michinoku Coastal Trail sign across from the trail entrance.
At the entrance, there’s a sign and a ribbon to indicate the Michinoku Coastal Trail path. These indicators are placed throughout the trail, especially at spots where the path can be confusing. The ribbons will often be tied to trees along the path.
From this point, the trail becomes a path through a forested area. The trail is full of diverse plant life and lovely flowers in spring and summer. These photos were taken in April near the end of winter, just before most of the tree leaves began to sprout. Along with nature on the trail, you can also enjoy many picturesque views of the ocean along the trail as well.
These ribbons indicate the path.
A rest area along the trail.
The view facing the north.
Photo taken from the Toji Daimyojin Shrine: this shrine along the trail is kept up by locals.
The view of the rias coast to the south.
This area of the cape continues for about 2 hours. For the last section of the trail, there is lumber work and construction being carried out, so it’s good to be careful in this area. Keep an eye out for ribbons showing the trail’s path.
Flowers persevering in the deforested area.
Ribbon tied to a stump.
From this point, you can see the bay. This is Tahama, which is where you want to head to go back into the Ryori’s main area.
Reaching the end of the forested part of the trail.
Heading back to the station through a neighborhood.
There are several examples of Kesen Carpentry in homes around Ryori and Ofunato at large. Kesen Carpentry has been showcased here on Kesen&Beyond as well, in Dylan’s article. One of the joys of exploring Ryori and Kesen is the rich architecture.
I personally chose this point to stop for lunch at the Oyone Restaurant in Ryori, which is on the way to the station.
I chose the spicy miso ramen, which was a delicious option. Going around the cape definitely works up an appetite.
The Ryori Cape is a great spot for those looking for a day trip full of nature, ocean views and a good hike. Whether you’re looking to take on the Michinoku Coastal Trail in its entirety, or would like to visit and walk a couple parts of the trail, we hope to see you in Kesen as well!
Michinoku Coastal Trail website, including routes and maps:
