Rōkandō Cave in Sumita

A short distance inland from the Sanriku area of Ofunato city lies the town of Sumita. It is a small, but vibrant community of 6,000. Farming and wood products the main industries of this beautiful forest-covered town. Sumita also has its fair share of culture and leisure pursuits. Perhaps the most famous of these would be Rōkandō Cave. Located in the north-eastern corner of the town at the base of the most famous peak in the region, Mount Goyō.

Rōkandō is a limestone cave of marble, formed over millions of years by groundwater erosion. While the total length of the cave is estimated at more than 3,600 meters, the area accessible to the public is a much more manageable 800 meters. Over the years I’ve had the opportunity to share the experience of Rōkandō with many family members and friends and all have thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The cave holds a constant temperature of 10°C, making it a nice, cool place to escape the summer heat and a warm shelter during the winter months at this year-round attraction.

Upon arriving, you are greeted by the cave staff, who will show you how to purchase your tickets through the vending machine. One note, as this is rural Iwate, cash is the only means of payment here, and there are no ATMs nearby. Tickets cost 1,050 yen (US $10) for adults, 700 yen for high school and junior high school students, 500 yen for primary school students and infants are free. Once your ticket has been purchased, the staff will help you select your cave wear. As the interior of the cave floor is wet and several places are fairly low requiring one to stoop down, Rōkandō provides rubber boots (up to 30cm or men’s 12½), nylon rain jackets as well as helmets for visitors to use. Once you’re all fitted out and ready to go, you begin your adventure by walking across the road, crossing over the local Kesen river via an arched bridge and make your way into the cave. The distance to the end of the cave is 800 meters, and is well-lit with signs at every 100 meters indicating how far you’ve progressed. It generally takes around 40~45 minutes to reach the end point within the cave.

There are several places along the way to admire the rock formations and moss that grows inside. Underground streams of pure mountain water flow by as you explore further. There is also a statue that pays homage to a Buddhist goddess, or Kannon.

At the end of the journey, the cave opens up into a large cavern with water cascading down from 29 meters above: Japan’s tallest subterranean waterfall. Once you’ve enjoyed the view and taken pictures you can make your way back the same way you came in.

After your 90 minute round trip, you may be feeling a bit hungry. That being the case there are two restaurants at Rōkandō to serve you. One is open all year round, serving a variety of standard hot Japanese dishes including tempura soba or udon noodles and curry and rice. There is also a set meal of jingisukan, or ‘Genghis Khan’; a regional dish similar to Mongolian barbecue served in Taiwan and neighboring Asian countries. A plate of sliced lamb with accompanying vegetables are served for you to cook yourself over a hot, cast iron grill with a dipping sauce for your cooked food. The meal also comes with rice and miso soup.

Also, during the summer months the other restaurant is open to serve zaru soba: cold soba noodles with a savory dipping broth. However, the interesting twist is in the way that the noodles are served to you. Customers are seated along a counter below the kitchen. Long, numbered bamboo stalks protrude from the kitchen and end at the corresponding numbered seat. When your noodles are ready they are sent down the with the help of running water and into your draining basket in front of you for you to eat.

All in all, Rōkandō is a great way to spend the day in the Kesen area. A mid-morning train from Hanamaki should get one to the cave before noon in time to enjoy the sights and enjoy lunch before taking the returning train.

Access to Rōkandō is easy using the JR Kamaishi Line from Hanamaki Station to Kamiarisu Station (90min) or by car along the Kamaishi Expressway and connecting to route 283, the Sennin Toge road, exiting at the Rokando off ramp (75km from Hanamaki). The cave is open daily from 08:30-17:00.